Hao Weimin Gu Qiang China's textile industry has a long history, is a traditional pillar industry in China's industrialization process, and is also an industry with strong international competitiveness and high international dependence. China is increasingly becoming a worldwide textile and clothing supply base. After joining the WTO, China's textile industry will integrate into the global economy on a larger scale and at a deeper level, which will have a major and far-reaching impact on the development of China's textile industry.
The international competition environment First, under the impetus of comparative advantage, the transnational flows of production factors such as capital and technology have triggered changes in the regional structure of textile production worldwide, and the production capacity has been rapidly concentrated in areas with labor cost advantages.
With the continuous evolution of the industrial structure of developed countries, the focus of the world textile industry continues to change. Since the 1960s, the cotton textile industry in developed countries such as Europe, the United States and Japan has gradually declined, and the cotton textile industry in Asia's newly industrialized countries and regions is growing. Since then, these newly industrialized countries and regions have also entered the ranks of traditional industrial structure upgrading. The cotton spinning industry in China, India, Pakistan, Southeast Asia and Latin America developed rapidly in the 1980s. In the 1990s, the production capacity of cotton in Europe and the United States declined further. In terms of ring spinning, such as Western Europe's cotton spindles decreased from 11.6 million spindles in 1990 to 5.8 million spindles in 2000, a total reduction of 50%, while the United States decreased from 11.6 million spindles to 3.7 million spindles. By the end of the 1990s, Asian ring spinning capacity accounted for 69% of the world's total, and Europe and the United States only accounted for about 25%.
Exports accounted for 49.4% of global textile exports, Japan accounted for 9.3%, and the United States accounted for 6.8%; in 2001, this proportion was 34.4%, 4.2%, and 7.1%, respectively, and the share of global textile trade in the US, Japan, and Europe fell by 20%. Percentage points. In 1980, clothing exports from 15 EU countries accounted for 42.0% of global apparel exports. In 2001, this proportion was 24.1%, a drop of 18 percentage points.
In contrast, textile and apparel trade in developing countries has risen sharply in global trade.
In 1980, China's garment exports accounted for only 4.0% of global trade. In 2001, it increased to 18.8%. Mexico, Bangladesh, and Dominica did not have clothing exports in 1980. In 2001, they accounted for 4.1% of global apparel trade, respectively. % and 1.4%. Between 1990 and 2001, the countries with a large proportion of monthly export exports accounted for a large increase in the proportion of domestic merchandise exports: Bangladesh, Dominica, Tunisia, Sri Lanka, Romania and so on. Fibers and their trade after the 1980s were mainly driven by the clothing trade. From 1980 to 1990, the trade volume of fiber products increased by 128 billion U.S. dollars, clothing trade increased by 68.9 billion U.S. dollars; in 1990-2001, the trade volume of fiber products increased by 129.5 billion U.S. dollars, clothing trade increased by 86.9 billion U.S. dollars, and the growth of fiber trade of about 50% was Initiated by the overseas processing trade in the processing of garments and their finished products. The clothing industry is at the low end of the value chain of the entire fiber industry. Compared with traditional industries such as cotton textiles, it has the characteristics of labor-intensive industries and plays an increasingly important role in the industrialization process of developing countries.
Secondly, the textile industry in developed countries and newly industrialized countries has changed the traditional way of competition, using high-tech and market networks to dominate the development of the textile industry in high value-added and high value-added fields.
High-tech technology has been introduced into the textile industry, and the structure of the world textile industry has undergone profound changes. The development and utilization of new textile materials and new technologies has greatly expanded the development space of the traditional textile industry, making the modern textile industry show a development trend based on textiles and beyond textiles, based on consumption and surpassing consumption; mechatronics in textile tradition The wide application in the production field has driven the spinning manufacturing industry to gradually shift from labor-intensive to technology- and capital-intensive; the rapid development of information technology, especially the international Internet, has made the development of the textile industry from production, technology and management. The narrow scope of benefits extends to a broader and far-reaching space for the benefits of time and market. The high-tech applications of electronic computer technology, sensing technology and variable frequency speed control make the textile and garment chemical fiber manufacturing technology to a short process. Automation, continuation and high-speed development. The above changes have also led to the world's textile competition. For example, the United States has made its own yarn or surface from the competition of 'price and quality' to 'high-tech, brand competition. For the focus "the transformation of the comprehensive economic strength competition.
In terms of market segmentation, developed countries rely on the advantages of capital and technology to firmly grasp the control of the world's textile high-end market. Take the US imported textiles and clothing as an example, China's export unit price is only 1/4 of that of advanced countries. Last year, the United States imported textile and clothing price comparison unit: USD/m2 Source: US Department of Commerce Textile and Apparel Office Third, the rise of regional groups On the one hand, trade liberalization has been achieved within a limited scope, and on the other hand, a country’s tariff and non-tariff barriers have been expanded into regional trade barriers.
Internal trade; in North American exports, internal trade accounts for 38%. These trades are maintained under exclusive restrictions. The trade volume between NAFTA (US, Canada, Mexico 2 was US$6 billion in 1993, US$12.2 billion in 1996, and US$18.4 billion in 1998. In 2002, US exports of textiles and clothing to Canada and Mexico were US$8.1 billion. Imports from Canada and Mexico amounted to US$12.7 billion. This institutional arrangement not only promoted the development of the Mexican textile industry, but also protected the interests of US textile manufacturers, but it also markedly excluded trade from countries and regions outside the region. After NAFTA Many US garment manufacturers have moved their factory production to Mexico and the Caribbean countries, which has driven the export of US textile materials to Mexico, processed into fabrics or garments and sold back to the United States, enjoying regional trade preferential policies, and internationalizing production. Reduce production costs and increase competitiveness.
The secret specification, but its policy of duty-free and quota-free in Central and Eastern Europe, makes the overseas processing trade of textiles in the EU region extremely popular. On January 1, 1998, the EU cancelled the textile and garment restrictions of six countries in Eastern Europe, including Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Romania and Slovakia. The textile and garment industry in Western Europe has taken the time to set up factories in Eastern Europe. As a result, a complementary division of labor within Europe has formed a strong obstacle to the export of textiles from other regions, especially the Far East.
Trade within the regional group generally has a zero tax rate, while the tariff level of the extra-regional trade is generally above 10%. The US clothing tariff in 2005 will be 11.5%. If the global textile and apparel industry implements free trade on time, the regional group The discriminatory tariff policy is still a big barrier to the export of developing countries outside the region, largely offsetting the positive impact of trade liberalization.
Fourth, the implementation of the sustainable development strategy poses a common challenge to the development of the textile industry in the world from the aspects of environmental protection and resource constraints.
From the perspective of fiber and textile production and processing, it is closely related to fiber, textile production and environmental protection, environmental cleaning and resource recycling. For example, viscose fiber uses carbon disulfide and acid and alkali in the production process, which is not conducive to environmental protection. Environmental protection has led to the extension of pure production technology to environmental technology and environmental protection technology. New technologies and processes must take into account low bath ratio, short process, and versatile production technology, as well as environmental protection such as wastewater recovery, non-toxic spinning, non-polluting sizing, non-polluting spinning, pollution-free dyeing and finishing. Technology to avoid the presence of residual formaldehyde, carcinogenic dyes, harmful heavy metals, halogenated dye carriers and other substances harmful to human health in textiles. Developed countries and newly industrialized countries have shifted some industries to developing countries due to factors such as environmental protection and production costs. However, due to lack of funds and environmental protection technologies, environmental pollution is becoming more and more serious in developing countries, and it is in the dilemma of economic growth and sustainable development. Among them.
Sustainable development is not only an integral part of a national development strategy, but also a common problem in human development. The liberalization of trade and investment may accelerate the transfer of some polluting and energy-intensive industries in developed countries to developing countries. If the policy measures are not appropriate, it may aggravate the environmental pollution or the destruction of the ecological environment in developing countries. At the same time, the issue of 'environmental dumping' may also arise in the development of trade in developing countries.
Globalization has enabled countries to face different strategic choices in terms of sustainability.
Under the background of resources, cost, technology, and foreign trade policy, the industries of all countries have launched all-round competition. Under the background of increasing market integration, the competitive pressure faced by China's textile industry has been increasing. Due to the dynamic changes in comparative advantage, China and Pakistan, India have no advantage in the competition of some traditional products such as cotton yarn and cotton fabric; in terms of garment exports, they face Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Vietnam and the Caribbean coast. The country's strong challenge. In fact, China's textile industry faces two types of competition at the same time: one is the market for medium and high-end products, mainly the high-quality products market in developed countries such as Europe, the United States and Japan, and the competition in the medium and high-end products market in large and medium-sized cities in China; The category is a cheap and beautiful product market, mainly in developing countries such as Asia and Africa and the vast rural consumer market in China. In other words, in the international market, http:// China's textile industry is facing the competition of advanced technology equipment and famous brand high-grade products in developed countries, as well as high-quality, low-cost products from developing countries. competition.
New challenges facing exports The phenomenon of textile and apparel exports being blocked by non-tariff barriers will increase.
At present, the speed of the EU and its member states or related organizations to build green barriers is accelerating. In the field of textile and apparel trade, more than 10 new regulations, directives or standards have been issued since last year. Developed countries have extended green barriers to textiles and clothing. In terms of certification. Currently, more than 40 countries have implemented green."
Sign certification, with a green logo to enter the country's market. These marks require the exporter to apply to the importing country, pass strict inspection, testing, comprehensive assessment, and pay a certain fee before the examination is passed, and have a certain period of use. IS09000 quality management system certification and IS014000 environmental management system certification and European eco-textile logo have become the 'threshold' of international trade.
Chinese enterprises lack sufficient understanding of green “certification and system certification, and their actions are slow. Only 90 of the national textile enterprises have obtained the 100* certification of environmental textile standards of the International Environmental Textile Association. The enterprises that have passed IS014000 certification in 858 printing and dyeing enterprises in China only Sixty-seven, only 26 companies that have passed IS09000 certification, and fewer products with green certification. In 2000, 2/3 of China's textile industry export enterprises and 1/4 of the products were affected by technical barriers, resulting in direct and indirect economics. The losses amounted to 10 billion U.S.. After joining the WTO, tariff barriers were gradually phased out, and non-tariff barriers were increasing. If we did not take effective measures to respond positively, it would be extremely unfavorable for me to export textiles and clothing.
Anti-dumping and countervailing cases may occur more and more frequently.
In recent years, anti-dumping cases in the textile sector have grown rapidly. Between 1990 and 1999, a total of 197 cases were involved, ranking the fifth in all industries. In 1994-2001, the EU proposed 53 new textile cases, ranking third in all industries, behind only 77 in the steel industry and 56 in the chemical industry. Of the 53 anti-dumping cases investigated by the EU, 46 were for developing countries and 51 were for related industry associations. China has become the country with the most anti-dumping.
In 2002 alone, there were several anti-dumping cases against China in the textile sector. On July 17, 2002, the Indian anti-dumping investigation agency issued an announcement to decide on anti-dumping investigations on silkworm raw silk originating in China. The Turkish government issued a communiqué in November 2002 to make an anti-dumping final ruling on polypropylene blankets originating in China and decided to impose an anti-dumping duty of US$4/kg. The South African Tax and Trade Department recently issued a government announcement to make a ruling on the extension of the five-year anti-dumping duty on my PTFE tape and flat weave.
In addition, China has treated China as a non-market economy country within 15 years after its accession to the WTO; in the process of anti-dumping investigations, the dumping margin can be calculated not by the price of the third country, but by the method of replacing the price with a third country. Similar products, regardless of the actual price of exports, are subject to anti-dumping duties at a uniform rate, which greatly strengthens the arbitrariness of anti-dumping countries and places China in an extremely passive position.
If Chinese enterprises do not actively respond to complaints and cannot maintain their legitimate rights and legitimate markets, they will be completely at a disadvantage.
The special safeguard mechanism may hinder the expansion of China’s exports.
Safeguard measures refer to the fact that when a member surges in import and causes serious damage or serious damage to its domestic related industries, the member may temporarily restrict the import of such products and adopt forms such as raising tariffs, pure quantitative restrictions and tariff quotas. Since China's accession to the WTO documents also contains special provisions on textiles and clothing, China's textile and apparel exports will also be severely constrained by this mechanism.
The American Textile Manufacturers Association (ATMI) has submitted to the US Textiles Agreement Executive Committee (CITA) in September 2002 that the US government is required to impose quota restrictions on Chinese products, mainly for knitting, in accordance with the provisions of the special protection measures for the textile market in the China WTO Accession Agreement. There are 5 categories, such as cloth, bra, gloves, pajamas and cloth suitcases. ATMI also requires quotas to be imposed if chemical fiber yarns from China continue to increase. Although the US government has not made a final statement on this, it will inevitably have a negative impact on China's textile exports to the United States. On March 8, 2003, the European Commission issued regulations. The basic content is that the European Commission has initiated the transition to Chinese products in view of China’s WTO accession agreement, which provides product-based transitional safeguards and transitional trade-prevention measures. Security mechanism. Countries such as South Korea have also enacted specific laws on China's special safeguard clauses, which will have an impact on China's textile and apparel exports in the coming period.
Several countermeasures have strengthened the coordination of foreign trade policies.
On the basis of following international trade rules, we will actively study trade policies concerning textile importing countries and adopt flexible measures to expand textile exports. Encourage enterprises with comparative advantages to shift from export trade to trade and investment, and focus on investment in economic integration areas and major markets for textile and apparel products exports. In terms of going global, we will strengthen planning and guidance, transfer some production capacity in an organized and step-by-step manner, and carry out overseas processing trade. In order to prevent damage caused by excessive import, dumping and subsidies of foreign products, we will establish emergency safeguard measures as soon as possible. The early warning and prevention system, the special transitional guarantee system for textiles and clothing, and the automatic termination of the ATC agreement in 2005, strengthen forward-looking research and make countermeasures. Under the multilateral trading system, jointly promote the liberalization of the global textile and apparel trade.
Intensify the development of technical trade measures.
China's technical standards are biased towards production standards, and they do not pay enough attention to trade-type standards. They cannot adapt to the requirements of product quality in the international market in a timely manner. Compared with the product standards of developed countries, the inherent quality requirements are low, which restricts the improvement of product quality. At present, there are nearly 90 national standards related to textile safety. Although these standards are mostly equivalent to the ISO standard, there are still gaps with the latest developments in the world, and most of the above standards are recommended standards with key limit indicators. Mandatory standards and corresponding technical regulations are still blank. In terms of ecological standards, there are problems such as imperfect environmental standards and regulations, and inadequate environmental protection technologies and measures.
It is necessary to analyze and study from the perspectives of economic security and product competitiveness, propose key industries and product catalogues that adopt trade technology measures, and conduct special research to formulate a system of technical trade measures in line with China's national conditions. For areas involving national security requirements and protecting human health or safety, formulate corresponding technical regulations, improve industry access standards, and promote industrial optimization and upgrading.
Establish an industrial service system that adapts to international competition.
Give play to the positive role of industry associations in formulating industry norms, implementing industry self-discipline, promoting joint ventures for market development, technology development, providing professional services to enterprises and conducting international exchanges. Self-discipline through various forms, such as through regulations, industry conventions, industry service specifications, industry trading rules or practices, industry quality standards, industry norms operating model regulations, violation of professional discipline and professional ethics disciplinary rules, commercial dispute resolution rules, etc. Self-discipline. Establish an efficient information network connecting textile enterprises, intermediary organizations, governments and markets, especially to provide SMEs with comprehensive information, technology, talents and other services. According to the provisions of the WTO, the dumping of foreign products is eligible for prosecution. One is the government, and the other is an industry organization. Individual enterprises are not eligible for prosecution because the substantive damage mentioned in the WTO treaty is for a country or Regional industry, not business. Similarly, it is also the government or industry association that proposes anti-dumping suits against foreign countries. Therefore, industry associations can play the role of the initiators and organizers of the WTO's safeguard clauses and safeguard the legitimate interests of the company. The industrial security early warning system that is compatible with the national emergency safeguard measures allowed by the WTO should be established as soon as possible, and the current anti-dumping and countervailing mechanisms should be improved to provide timely and effective safeguard measures for domestic industries.
Accelerate the pace of certification and actively participate in international litigation.
The ecological testing and certification of textiles and garments has become a prerequisite for international market access. It is necessary to actively develop environmentally-friendly deep-processing products, and regard green textiles and ecological garments as new growth points for textile and garment exports. At the same time, we must speed up the pace of certification, and actively carry out various certification forms such as ISO9000 quality system certification and ISO14000 international environmental protection standard system certification, obtain the passport of the international market, and break the trade barriers set by some countries.
At present, apart from the EU, other countries have adopted the practice of granting separate judgments to Chinese responding companies. The responding companies have low anti-dumping duties, and those that should not be sued are subject to a high anti-dumping duty of more than 100%.
In recent years, China has been advocating a policy of responding to complaints and who benefits. If the enterprises that do not participate in the lawsuit are re-exported by the 'terminating agreement' or the counterparty, they must pay anti-dumping duties. Fundamentally speaking, only when enterprises actively respond to the lawsuit, provide favorable evidence to the court, and gradually increase the proportion of winning the case, the anti-dumping situation will gradually improve.
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